Fong said (quoted text):
>So... what's the best way the full lock turn, then?
(dumb medics - which bit of "can't describe in an e-mail" was hard??? Mutter Grumble)
Get a light-ish 'bike (I use my DR or Fran's Hornet though I _have_ done it with an FJ when told I couldn't)
Stand next to it.
Put it on FULL LOCK towards you, in gear, clutch pulled in.
Lean the 'bike on your thigh, so it is well lent over in the direction the bars are turned.
Be sure there's weight on your thigh - the 'bike must want to fall in the direction the bars are turned, this is IMPORTANT (unless you like the smell of ABS cement).
If the 'bike is prone to stall, raise the revs briefly to about 2,500. If it is a meaty 4-T (like the DR !) idle will suffice. You need enough power to initiate a pull away, without stalling - no more.
Let the clutch out briefly but with a little brio: you want the 'bike to move forwards a foot or two, but _not_ too slowly: as though pulling away from traffic lights - but only for a foot or two.
Repeat a few times but ENSURE the 'bike is on full lock at all times and is lent to that side as well.
Unless you're incompetent (no-one's EVER failed when I've tried this in real life!) or have a Bimota Tesi, by now you'll have seen that each "power pulse" picks the 'bike up ... it tries to lean over to the side AWAY from you.
You now have proof and - more importantly - BELIEF that you can "pick a 'bike up" when its weight is pulling it inwards JUST BY PUTTING A 'POWER PULSE' THROUGH THE REAR TYRE.
You also now have a "feel" for how you need to combine clutch and throttle (as I say, you might NOT need throttle at all) to deliver a 'power pulse" of the right magnitude.
Get on your 'bike.
Ride it in a straight line AS SLOWLY AS POSSIBLE feet up.
(Start off feet _down_ if needs be - but move to feet up)
That's far too fast - I mean really, really slowly.
Use the rear brake to keep the speed down.
This tends to make it stall unless you spend MOST of the time with the clutch pulled in.
[Oh look - a link with Stage 1 has just appeared] ;-)
Practice delivering a 'power pulse' to keep the 'bike moving / from toppling.
BUT then use the rear brake - quite hard - to stop that 'power pulse' becoming a sudden leap forward.
You blip the clutch out to regain balance, but the moment the 'bike surges forwards you pull in the clutch and _apply_ _your_ _rear_ _brake_.
You should be braking more than accelerating.
Put the 'bike onto full lock - the bars must turn to their physical limits.
Curse!!!! - get off - adjust the bars / the tank bag / the controls / the fsking steering damper so that you can reach full lock without losing fingers/thumbs. ERGONOMICS MATTER!
Put the 'bike onto full lock.
Use a series of 'poer pulses' to move once around a FULL circle (361 degrees or more).
You notice that you really have to drag your feet to stop the 'bike running away with you?
You _also_ notice that, unless you lean it a LONG way "into" the turn, you keep taking "dabs" with your OUTSIDE foot?
Each 'power pulse' tends to throw the 'bike OUTWARDS. [as in Stage 1]
Repeat a few times - get a feel for using MINIMUM power to move the bike round a full circle - on full lock.
STOP if the 'bike gets too hot!!
Use the REAR BRAKE instead of your feet.
Most people find it easiest to turn RIGHT first off - but feel free to try left ('cos your right foot is working the brake but your left is free to take dabs ... which you shouldn't need).
As per the straight line slow riding, USE THE BRAKE QUITE HARD - when this causes an inwards topple, use another 'power pulse' to couneract it .. instead of a dab.
As you get better, use smaller power pulses and less rear brake - makes it smoother.
ANYTIME you have a problem, move back to the PREVIOUS STAGE.
Et viola - slow speed, full-lock circles. No over-revving. No drama. No hassle.
YMMV. The Midget Takes No Responsibility.