any comment from anyone about the new british machinery? is that metric or imperial?
the haynes manuals have a list in the front too...
oh yeah, rubber/nylon mallet...a definite must!
if you're doing more serious work, a good 1/4 drive socket set is very handy, expect to pay about 30-40 quid for combined a/f and metric set.
also for more serious work, you're bound to come across summat that needs a weird tool available at excruciating cost from the manufacturer (although some of these can be made up from other things...)
If you're working on Japanese bikes which haven't been apart before then an impact driver is a very good idea. And when you put the screws back in put some anti-seize compound (such as copperslip) on the threads, that way next time you come to unscrew them they won't be seized up. Don't the designers know any electrochemistry? - steel screw + aluminium casing + water = instant seize.
Triumph's and BSA's also need special pullers to get the clutch hub off and a special screwdriver to undo the clutch spring but these are easily and cheaply available.
> oh yeah, rubber/nylon mallet...a definite must!Or a normal hammer and a block of wood (put the wood on the casing and hit it with the hammer). Aluminium drifts for driving out bolts are very useful.
There was a comment about not buying the 250 piece tool boxes mail order etc, however if you've only got a limited budget or a limited amount of tools then these are an excellent way to get most of what you need cheaply and conveniently. As the tools wear out, replace them individually with good quality parts from a reputable manufacturer. It gets expensive buying tools on an individual basis, I've just paid 35 quid for an impact driver, good quality screwdrivers can cost up to 20 quid each, torx bits are 10 quid for 5 it's expensive.
Cheap tools do wear out, especially pliers, screwdrivers and mallets. The good thing is that most tools are adequate for the job unless you do a LOT of maintenance and will last for ever. My only complaint about the spanners supplied with my 150 piece kit 12 years ago is that they're a bit chubby - I replaced them with a set of Kamasa spanners that cost about 12 quid 19 '82 with a huge discount. None of the original spanners have worn out yet - and I do more maintenance than average.
My main problem with tools is that I tend to lose them, in confined spaces etc it's easy to drop a screwdriver and not be able to retrieve it, or leave a spanner on a nut for convenience and forget to remove it before driving off.
The tools that do wear out will be either the poorer quality ones or the most used ones so you know you have to buy good quality stuff.
The Facom & Snap-On are franchised dealers who supply to garages etc and are a mobile tool shop, if you phone them they'll deliver to your door and let you browse. I think also that you can pay by installments. One day I may try out Facom's Lifetime guarantee because my mole-grip jaws are getting a bit on the smooth side.
TTFN < TTWT
Dave Restall writes:
> Other makes - not quite so desirable > Draper Japanese, cheap but useable but not much good for hard work.Draper tools are based in Southampton. I don't know how much of their stuff they make and how much they import. I have a number of their tools and I think that they are perfectly adequate for hard work in the hands of the amateur mechanic.
Draper are also the UK importers for the German firm Elora, who make tools of very high quality.
Also missing from Daves list of good stuff is Britool. Made in UK and very expensive, totally worth it particularly their socket sets. I have a 30-year-old 1/2" drive ratchet which is still going strong despite being treated unmercifully.
> .....Facom are franchised dealers who supply to garages etcOr you could take a trip to your local Halfords. The one in Ipswich has them (and the full range of Sykes-Pickavant).
Incidentally the pronunciation in English is often very close to "Fuck-em". Sample conversation from when I used to ring the Facom distributors (buying tools used to be one of my jobs)
"Good morning, Facom"
"Yeah, that's what I always say too"
Another hot tip for tools are Swan Bearing Factors. As well as selling bearings very cheaply they stock Sykes Pickavant and other good stuff, rocol cutting compounds , that kind of thing.
| | Other makes - not quite so desirable | | Draper Japanese, cheap but useable but not much good for hard work.I disagree. Firstly not all Draper tools are made in Japan, quite a lot are made in "Western" Germany. Secondly I bought a 72 peice Draper socket set about 5 years ago, and it was (and is) absolutely superb. The machining is excellent, the plating perfect, and even the ratchets are still showing no signs of wear.
Another sign of Draper's (possibly "new") image, is that my local industrial tool supplier stocks the ENTIRE Draper range.
The best spanners I have ever had the pleasure of using are "Gedora" from Germany. My Mum bought me 3 to start me off. I'm currently saving up for a 11/16W one.
> > Draper are also the UK importers for the German firm Elora, who make > tools of very high quality.when you could get elora 205 spanners before, they were excellent. i gathered that draper had taken over elora (maybe not?) but anyway, the elora spanners seem tohave lost the edge of quality they used to have...they don't seem to have quite the same quality finish they used to...
> Also missing from Daves list of good stuff is Britool. Made in UK > and very expensive, totally worth it particularly their socket sets. > I have a 30-year-old 1/2" drive ratchet which is still going strong > despite being treated unmercifully.yeah thats what i thought...missing i mean...my father had a britool socket set, the old 3/16 whitworth hexagon drive ones...exceptional quality.
small (1/4 drive) socket sets: taskmaster chrome-van sets are good. (i've had 2, the first got nicked :-(). Kamasa rachetless socket handles are fantastic little (or big) things ,come in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive and use a roller/ramp one-way drive instead of a toothed ratchet beautifully smooth and no annoying "not quite 2 clicks" syndrome.
for heavy socket work, single-hex impact/power sockets are good, also the single hex doesn't tend to chew nuts/boltheads so much.
> when you could get elora 205 spanners before, they were excellent. i gathered > that draper had taken over elora (maybe not?) but anyway, the elora spanners > seem to have lost the edge of quality they used to have...they don't seem to > have quite the same quality finish they used to...Yeah, I reckon this too - I was slowly building a complete set of Elora spanners, and b***** draper took 'em over at some point, whereafter the spanners went decidedly downhill and I stopped buying 'em - they're still pretty good, but not as clean/slim/accurate. Most draper stuff I've seen is "passable", the "expert" series is kind of OK.
> yeah thats what i thought...missing i mean...my father had a britool socket > set, the old 3/16 whitworth hexagon drive ones...exceptional quality.Hmm - I've seen old britool stuff, and again it's gone a bit downhill - that said, even the "ordinary steel" britool ring spanners were pretty tidy when I last bought one. I have a couple of gorgeous cr-mo 13mm combination spanners made by britool, one was "aquired" when a bloke servicing our generator left it behind (thanks Lister!) and I bought the other 'cos I needed a pair of 13mm spanners for summat - the "aquired" one is much nicer, slimmer section (quite a practical difference, 'cos it reaches the parts, etc) stronger-seeming, cleaner, tighter, etc. It's really annoying the way tool prices go up and the quality down... sigh...
> small (1/4 drive) socket sets: taskmaster chrome-van sets are good. (i've had > 2, the first got nicked :-(). Kamasa rachetless socket handles are fantastic > little (or big) things ,come in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive and use a roller/ramp > one-way drive instead of a toothed ratchet beautifully smooth and no annoying > "not quite 2 clicks" syndrome.These things are lovely :-) It's worth noting that Kamasa seem to do several grades of tool, not particularly well identified - they do a sort of crap DIY grade, a good DIY grade ("professional" ?) and a professional grade supplied via van to garages etc., I think. This last grade is distinctly more heavy-duty (judging by the spanners our local garage has) but still slim and practical.
> for heavy socket work, single-hex impact/power sockets are good, also the > single hex doesn't tend to chew nuts/boltheads so much.Swinbourne sockets seem rather nice (assuming the still exist) and again the older/genuinely professional Cr-Mo Kamasa ones...